What you will need.
Yeast
Yeast Nutrient (recommended but not necessary)
Pot (boil should only make pot half full)
Thermometer
Funnel
Flask or Jar
Stovetop (heat source)
1. Purchase your yeast and at least a pound of dry malt extract.
2. Prepare the yeast starter at least three days prior to your brew day. You can start earlier and keep the starter (post fermentation cycle) in the refrigerator for up to two weeks...but personally I wouldn't go longer than seven days. A yeast start can use any type of yeast. Smack pack, vial, or dry yeast. I have had success with all. If you use dry yeast, prepare the yeast with 250ML water at 95-105F at least 15 minutes before adding to starter. Cover.
3. Equipment. Boil pot. Make sure your boil pot is big enough to handle water and DME, but doesn't make it half way up the pot. There is the potential for boil overs (significant others get pissed!).
If you have a 1L or 2L Flask, prepare to make the appropriate amount. I always recommend going bigger (aka 2L). No flask, no problem...mason jars also work great. Make sure you wash and sanitize your (post boil) equipment thoroughly, to include flask (jar), thermometer, funnel.
John Palmer says use one pint (470ML approx) per 1/2 cup dry malt extract (DME). If it ain't broke don't fix it...
4. Boil Water: For a 1L starter, add two pints of water to boil pot. Turn heat on...get hot, and boil. Double for 2L.
5. Add DME: For a 1L starter, add one cup of Dry Malt Extract (DME). Again, there is a potential of boil over. Use a pot that will only be half full with water and DME added. Allow the hot break (foam over) to occur and proceed with a ten minute boil. With two minutes left, add 1 teaspoon of yeast nutrient.
6. Chill out!: In your sink (or bathtub / bucket) prepare an ice bath for your pot of DME Wort. Much like brewing a beer, its important to rapidly bring your wort to a yeast 'pitchable' temperature. When the wort is in the ice bath, stir frequently. I find frozen water bottles and other plastic frozen things work well to keep the ice bath temp down.
8. Aeration: Once wort and yeast have been added to flask (or jar), swirl container vigorously (but not to spill) to allow oxygen to get into wort. If you stirred during the chilling step, this was probably already happening...but yeast loves oxygen so the more the merrier!
9. Cover: Once the wort has been transfer to the flask (jar) and aerated, and the yeast has been added, you should cover the flask. I prefer to use press and seal or cling wrap. I do the first layer tight across the top of the flask. I then use a thin knife and make four small incisions so CO2 can leave the flask. I then add a second layer of wrap with a cone at the top, and lightly wrap around outside of flask so CO2 can leave flask.
10. Swirl: If you don't have a stir plate (I don't), then every few hours swirl the container. The yeast will thank you later.
11. Store: Place the yeast in an area out of direct sunlight and that is temperature controlled (per your yeast instructions.
12. Pitch: Brew day has arrived. If the yeast has completed the fermentation cycle, and is dormant at the bottom of the flask, pour off the top 50% into your sink and keep the rest. then swirl to create a yeast slurry, and pitch. Dormancy can be sped up by chilling at least four hours in refrigerator temperatures prior to pitching.
If the starter is in full or partial fermenation, you can either pitch the whole starter, or discard 50% and pitch the remaining starter (after swirling to create a slurry). In my opinion, a full or partial fermentation starter creates a fast fermentation when added to new full batch homebrew wort.
I hope these steps help you create a better environment for your yeast to thrive. Brewers make wort, yeast make beer...but sometimes brewers can help yeast make the most of their destiny! CHEERS!
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